Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
